This Texas legacy established in 1857 as a fort has been restored into luxury remote accommodations that have been on my bucket list for some time.  The ranch offers a unique opportunity to stay in well-appointed rooms in the remote Chinati Mountains not far from Big Bend area.  While the 3.5-hour drive from the Midland airport requires some effort to get here, you will be rewarded with incredible solitude.

March 2017-Passing through the unassuming gated entrance, we drove the road less traveled into the ranch watching a herd of bison and seeing distant views of the property.  The fort was positioned near the Cibolo Creek which creates an oasis in the desert climate.  Approaching the three-foot adobe walls and watchtowers, I was amazed at the incredible restoration of the fort.  Irrigation ditches called acequia were woven throughout the property to yield beautiful landscaping and an abundance of birds.

We were upgraded to a room with a King size bed and sleeper sofa that overlooked the courtyard.  The authentic antiques, Saltillo floor tile, kiva fireplace, and a wall of books about Texas gave a rich West Texas welcome.  While the luxury linens and Aveda toiletries provided hints of luxury, the absence of a television and minimal cell phone service offered a welcomed opportunity to disconnect.

One could spend a day just soaking in the history of this place.  The rooms around the front courtyard were filled with remnants from the past. The story began with the founder Milton Faver who built his first of three forts, El Fortin del Cibolo, at the current location.  Because of the nearby springs he had a significant cattle operation and farm produce.  John Poindexter discovered the ranch in 1988. Once acquiring the property, he began extensive research to accurately restore the fort, including gathering old photographs and archives, many of which are displayed in the courtyard museums. He also reintroduced animals and plant life indigenous to the area.  Over a seven-year period, the detailed restoration and expansion to 22 guest rooms was completed.  The ranch now has three separate listings in the National Register of Historical Places.

With the remoteness of the lodging, choosing the meal plan was a wise option.  Meals were served family style around large tables in the porch area overlooking the lake and mountains.  The chef prepared hearty entrees that were appropriate for the region.  Dinnertime was a highlight for me!  A buffet of appetizers was served at 6:30 and included  homemade guacamole and salsa and their signature drink, the prickly pear margarita.  At 7:30 we proceeded to the dining table for an intimate dinner with only 6 guests.  The three-course steak meal, including wine, did not disappoint.  After a delicious dessert, they offered to start a fire in the pit outside and provide s’mores.  As the night sky darkened, the thick blanket of stars began to appear above.  We headed over to the hot tub strategically positioned on the resort property for the least interference from lights.  It was a serene experience for us to soak in the warm waters and gaze at the spectacular starry skies!  We met several guests who traveled to this resort just for the stargazing experience.

We spent the afternoons lounging by the heated pool and along the lakeside under the shade.  While the pool was slightly warm during the day, the temperatures were perfect for a comfortable night swim.  Also, there were plenty of hiking opportunities from the resort itself.  We chose to hike along Cibolo Creek to the North Springs, which was partially shaded due to huge cottonwood trees.  The trail passed old sheep pens from many years ago and some hammocks positioned near the headwaters of the springs.  There were also nice views of the Chinati Mountains as we approached the North Springs.

On our last morning, we signed up for the Humvee mountain ranch tour. The Humvee was nicely cushioned for the off-road trail and the high seats allowed for great views. The 2.5-hour tour of the ranch gave us a true appreciation for this property. Along our tour route we saw large herds of magnificent aoudad sheep near a trickling waterfall, an overlook view that allowed you to see all the way to Fort Davis, an area of geo crystal rocks and evidence of an ancient volcanic crater, and the ruins of early settlers and Indian pictograms.

There were plenty of other activities that we did not have time to participate in.  They had mountain bikes available, horseback riding, paddle boats for the lake, ATVs, shooting ranges, a media room, and an exercise room. There was also a tour to two more remote forts that you can stay at that I would have enjoyed.

We left with a very pricey bill but grateful for our time in this treasured West Texas solitude.  Apparently this lesser known resort has caught the attention of several movie stars looking for remoteness including Mick Jagger, Julia Roberts and Bruce Willis.   The late Supreme Court Justice Antonin Scalia also frequented the ranch until his recent tragic death occurred while staying here.  Several movies were filmed on location including “No Country for Old Men” in 2008 and “Giant” in 1957.  We were also thankful to experience this resort after the spring break crowds had left.  As we drove away from this historic oasis, I kept thinking it seemed as if we had this huge ranch just to ourselves.  It was another road less traveled experience at Cibolo Creek Ranch at www.cibolocreekranch.com