The second largest canyon in America resides in the panhandle of Texas. Early Spanish Explorers stumbled upon this canyon and named it “Palo Duro” which is Spanish for “hard wood” for all the mesquite and juniper trees that line the canyon. With the canyon being over 120 miles long, 20 miles wide and up to 800 feet in depth there is plenty to explore! The canyon was carved over time by the Prairie Dog Town Fork of the Red River.   The early settlers of the canyon were Indian tribes who were forced out in 1874. Ranching soon took over the land until the state bought the park in 1933 and the Civilian Conservation Corps workers came in to develop what is now known as the Palo Duro Canyon State Park.

June 2009-While spending time in Amarillo, we took a 45-minute drive south to explore the Palo Duro Canyons for a day. I was unprepared for the magnitude of these canyons. While not as large as the Grand Canyon they are more easily obtainable and certainly worth visiting. We came in early June when the vegetation was still very green and wildflowers were abundant due to spring rains. Because of the desert climate, we knew the cooler morning temperatures would not last long and we wanted to hike the most exposed areas first. We hiked the Goodnight Peak Scenic Loop, which offered great views of the park, and the Lighthouse Trail, which was considerably longer at almost 6 miles.  As the temperatures climbed quickly into the 90’s we were grateful for all the water we had brought with us.

With over eight miles of the park paved, we were able to see much of the park by car. Due to heavy rains, the rivers were running full of milky water and some of the trails were too muddy to hike. The park had done a nice job of reserving some trails for just hiking, or biking or equestrian use. There were also a few historical sights as well as birding locations. Campsites were provided for tents, RV’s, and backpackers. The most interesting lodgings were the cabins built by the CCC. What these seven cabins missed in luxury they made up for in historical charm and incredible views. For the ultimate Palo Duro Canyon glamping experience, I would highly recommend reserving the Lighthouse, Goodnight or Sorenson Cabin, which book months in advance.

If you happen to be here in the summer, you do not want to miss the TEXAS outdoor musical drama. It runs Tuesday though Sunday in the Pioneer Amphitheater and tells the story of the struggles of the early settlers of the Canyon. Using the canyon as the backdrop for the play, the story seems to come to life. The grand finale with fireworks is not to be missed! They also serve a barbecue dinner before the musical production.

After visiting the Palo Duro Canyon, it is easy to understand why Lysius Gough wrote this poem,

“God with his infinite power, millions of years ago

In some important hour carved the Palo Duro.

He leveled the plains around it and capped it with a rim of stone…

Most any child can bound it, creation, that’s God’s own.

In the center he placed great rocks, and springs on the mountainside…

Then flowers and ferns and flox, and stately shading trees abide…

He placed meandering streamlets, flowing from side to side…

And many side canyons and inlets, controlling torrents and tide.

Vandals may attempt to destroy God’s marvelous works, divine…

But oh, let future peoples enjoy, Palo Duro’s wondrous design…

Was there ever before such beauty, such blending of tints and hue?

To preserve it now is man’s duty…

May he to this trust be true. “